Monday, September 22. 2008

Last night, we three along with my Mom and nephew Joe decided to try Boston's by the Viaduct in Canton, a redo of the former Nick's Place.
It wasn't pretty.
Around 8-10 years ago, the old Nick's was a decent family restaurant with an expansive menu, specializing in Greek and Italian. Friendly, competent servers took good care of you, and for a decent price.

Hey... you folks over at Boston's by the Viaduct... this is what a North End sausage sub is supposed to look like. Note the crusty toasted Italian roll, that the veggies are fully cooked and the sausage still retains some of its flavorful juices. Seriously... you guys need to watch The Food Channel. |
We should have known something was amiss when we arrived around 6 PM, Sunday evening. Nick's used to be packed at that time, and a wait of thirty minutes or longer not unusual. We were seated right away--two other people in the dining room, two in the bar. When the waitress came, she seemed put-out and somehow harassed, despite a lack of customers to harry her.
Boston's thing is sort of a food tour of Beantown; their menu sub-divided into sections titled, North End, Quincy Market, Haymarket, and the like.
I doubt any food made on those premises would pass on the natives, for sure... and there aren't all that many tourists to rip-off around Canton. |
And so the place was empty... the word of mouth we somehow missed must have been vile.
To make what could be a long story short, Joe ordered the Nacho appetizer for his main dish: cheap, thin, stale, flavorless nachos, no cheese to speak of, a sprinkle of jar salsa and lump of bad guac. (Uncle Bill... these nachos suck.)
Grammy and May had Steak Tip subs, what little meat there was overdone and tough. My 'North End' sausage sub was a joke... bad bread, A HALF of a tasteless, dried-out sausage topped with a spare scattering of uncooked peppers and onions.
It's hard to believe that food professionals are running this ship, or that you can be that bad by accident.
I'll give Boston's a 0.5 for getting a bacon cheeseburger cooked to order and their fairly decent, crispy onion rings, but I think I'm being generous since everything, including the drinks, had a high-end price.
Go at your own peril... you'd be much better off in the North End.
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Boston's by the Viaduct
399 Neponset St..
Canton, Ma, MA 02021
Phone: (781) 828-7878
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Rating: A Dismal 0.5 out of 5 Tomato Salads

Friday, August 22. 2008

There's a dearth of decent Barbecue up here in the Boston Metro NW quadrant, at least nothing to write home about, especially if home happens to be around Austin or Memphis. For any sort of decent ribs, you have to snuggle up to the city, to Arlington for the Blue-Ribbon, Davis Square for Redbones, or in our case, down to Moody Street in Waltham to Bison County.

Some bizarre religious sects have organized boycotts against Bison County for its satanic motiff and excessive amounts of cholesterol. |
We've stopped off there for a bite a couple of times during the past month, once with my nephew Joe, last week with S/Sgt. Matt of the Elvis Air Force.
In 2006, Bison County took "Best Ribs" first prize in the annual Boston Magazine reader's poll. Befittingly, both times the main dishes hit the mark, including Babyback ribs, spicy baked Chile Rellenos and, "Wagon Train"--a medley of grilled tenderloin, turkey and bison tips.
However, despite all the charred meaty goodness, the two visits had uneven results in the service and the side-dishes, perhaps due in part to going on a Sunday vs. Saturday. Their baked beans are prefect with the ribs, but the second time could have called bean soup: perhaps an inch of beans drowning at the bottom of a watery liquid, and cold to boot. |
Matt was happy with his Wagon Train mixed grill, but the garlic mashed that came with was both watery and grainy at the same time. May loved the Chile Rellenos with habenero cream sauce, but the accompanying black bean tomato salsa was heavily vinegared, rendering the mix astringent and tasteless.
Blog from the Future Past has thousands of readers in the local area and we're sure word will get back to folks over at Bison to get their total act together and reduce the amount of undesirable liquids in their food.
I'll still go their for the ribs, though... those beauties alone get Bison County a 3.5 out of 5.
Bison County
275 Moody Street.
Waltham, MA 02453
Phone: (781) 642-9720
Rating: 3.5 out of 5 Tomato Salads

Friday, December 7. 2007

DAILY BREAD

Ketchup with pot roast is a French-Canadian genetic thing.
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Happy Pearl Harbor Day.
Pearl Harbor Day is a major family holiday for us. It's the only 'day' both our cultures have in common. When the war ended, my Dad was in Manila, staging for the million-man invasion of the Japanese home islands, while my future mother-in-law, a middle-school student, was being trained to charge the American invaders with a sharpened stick.
In honor of what might have been, but never was, what better dish to celebrate the day than the cultural synthesis of Pot Roast Japonaise.
A few years ago some friends from Japan were in town for a business trip and we invited them over for dinner. I suggested we have a pot roast (the high end kind described in the addendum to this article), sort of easy to make and bullet-proof even for the inevitably inebriated chef. May suggested I make it with "a Japanese taste".
I came up with a cool compromise, taking some hints from, well of course Sukiyaki; plus a related beef, potato and onion soup/stew. I've tinkered with the recipe over the years, but on that first try I somehow nailed all the basics, meaning it all came out pretty much as planned. |
The first step is getting your hands on the right cut of beef for the roast. I make my high-end pot roast with a sirloin or rib roast, but for family meals I usually choose a less-expensive cut of chuck. Now, chuck is a large cut and you want only a 2.5 to 3.5 lb roast. Make sure you get the shoulder (upper) end of the chuck, which will be more round than square, well-marbled and tied up with twine. A roast from the lower, leg end of the chuck, will require a longer cooking time and your veggies may cook down to mush.
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Continue reading "Pot Roast Japonaise"
Thursday, November 29. 2007

Bernard's is an unusual name for a Chinese restaurant, but then Bernard's is unusually good, arguably the best Chinese nearby outside the narrow streets of Boston's Chinatown.
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Outside Bernard's Chinese Restaurant in the Chestnut Hill Mall, giant squid entertain arriving customers before they are salted, peppered and equisitely deep-fried.
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We had tried the lunch specials a couple of times and decided the place had to be worth a shot for dinner.
Our resident teenager wanted General Gao's Chicken, a hit from her lunch specials. May seemed to be homing in on fried noodles with shrimp, which left me to find some appetizer thing we could all eat... maybe.
I have a sort of love/hate relationship with squid. In Japan I've had squid a thousand ways, including "fermented" (note: not for the squeemish). They boil it, broil it, grill it and chill it. They dry it, soak it, shred it and bread it, but in some of the pubs over there, they fry it like it's nobody's business.
Getting squid done right isn't easy--undercook it and it's tough, overcook it and it's even tougher, but I love the stuff and decided to give Bernard's version a try. |
Less than five minutes after we ordered, the waiter dropped off a heaping plate of the best Chinese dish I've had in years: al dente-tender squid rings and tentacle clusters cooked to perfection inside a crispy savory coating, garnished with fried won-tons, which the kid ate. May and I finally had to give up on the appetizer because we were getting stuffed before the entrees were served, and there was still almost half of it left.
That dish alone was worth the price of admission, but everything we've had there has been top quality, freshly made and served HOT!, a rarity at restaurants these days.
Bernard's isn't cheap--this is the Chestnut Hill Mall, after all--but worth more than every penny.
Bernard's
199 Boylston St (Mall at Chestnut Hill)
Chestnut Hill, MA 02467-1692
Phone: (617) 969-3388

Saturday, November 3. 2007

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DAILY BREAD

Tonkatsu (Japanese style fried pork cutlets), with shredded lettuce and tomato salad and sticky white rice.
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Our daughter is a picky eater, so there are only a handfull of dishes the three of us can eat together. One of our favorites: fried pork cutlets, called "Tonkatsu".
Here in the US, most Japanese restaurants serve tonkatsu, among other things. However, in Japan, there are restaurants that specialize in 'furai' (fry) and their pork cutlets are to die for.
Our Friday fare, courtesy of May, was an excellent rival.
Thin cut loin chops are pounded even thinner, then rubbed with a little "shio-koshu", or fine grained salt and white pepper. The cutlets are then coated with flour, dipped in beaten egg and rolled in panko bread crumbs before deep-frying in peanut oil heated to 375° F.
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In Japan, tonkatsu is usually served with shredded cabbage, replaced in our house by shredded lettuce and tomato salad. The cutlets are served with Bulldog Sauce and karashi, or Japanese mustard, accompanied by white rice.

Tuesday, October 23. 2007

DAILY BREAD

Korean style steak tips, with chicken sausage, grilled veggies and Tandoori Pilaf.
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On my way home from the movies after Gone Baby Gone on Saturday, I stopped by Whole Foods looking for something to grill. Since the kid would be out risking life and limb at one of those Haunted House things, I just needed to worry about the two of us.
But never go food shopping when you're hungry, and some sort of shish-kabob thing seemed in order.
After picking up a couple of portabello caps, asparagus, red and green peppers, zuchinni and a sweet onion, I settled on sirloin tip steak and one of their huge chicken sausages.
I let the beef, sausage and portobello marinate in a store-bought Korean roasted rib sauce (sometimes called 'Kalbi Sauce') until dinner... about three hours.
About a hour before cooking, I whipped up a marinate/baste for the veggies, which, except for the asparagus, I sliced thin and skewered for the grill: 2 TBS Korean Roasted Rib Sauce; 1 TBS Chinese cooking wine, 1 TBS peanut oil, 1 TBS mirin (Japanese sweet rice wine), 1 TBS fresh squeezed lemon juice. Whisk together and brush liberally onto the vegetable skewers and the asparagus. Salt and pepper to taste. |
I grilled the skewers, mushrooms, sausage and asparagus on the top tier of my gas grill, almost slow cooking, basting with the marinade as I turned them a few times while cooking, somewhere around 30 minutes. When the veggies were about done done, I quick cooked the steak medium rare over high heat on the bottom grill.
I served this over a packaged Tabdoori pilaf. The sassy, smokey flavor of cumin and coriander well compliments just about anything off the grill.

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